Presented during the Autumn-Winter 2012-2013 collection, this jewelry collection by Camille Miceli takes its cue from the world of dance.
Known as “bijoux couture”, costume jewelry became a part of Christian Dior’s looks with his second collection, presented in 1947. Unlike fine jewelry wrought in gold and precious stones, “couture” jewelry was a fashion accessory in its own right – a must, but with a personality and spirit all its own. As its name indicates, it weaves the notion of couture together with that of jewelry, and inside the Dior ateliers artisans assemble these chunky statement necklaces as much with needle and thread as with burnishers and mandrels.
Last week, Dior’s creative director of accessories Camille Miceli presented her latest collection. In keeping with the ready-to-wear collection, she took her cues from the world of dance. More specifically, she was inspired by selected pieces now on show in the “Danser sa Vie” (“Dance Your Life”) exhibition at the Centre Pompidou in Paris (through April 2, 2012), among them photographs by the artist André Kertész, choreography by William Forsythe and performances by Loïe Fuller.
“In dance, there is a discipline so rigorous it is almost destructive, yet at the same time there is great delicacy,” explains Miceli. “I wanted to explore that contradiction.” The result can be seen in pear- or oval-shaped cabochons that have been heated until they splinter, as if martyred by a drive to push the limits, and then mounted on slim velvet ribbons. Elsewhere, wooden bracelets seem to wrap around the wrist like the bandage a ballerina uses to swathe her feet and protect them inside her pointe slippers. Dangerous beauty, magnified by design.